Overhauling your motorcycle: changing the engine oil

To perform an oil change, you need :

• Preferable: a motorcycle to be drained (in our case: a Kawasaki er6n 2006).
• A toolbox with standard tools (flat wrenches, Allen keys, etc.). Sometimes, the motorcycle'stool kit will suffice.
• Specific equipment: 1 oil filter wrench, 1 special oil change can (or a bowl + an old 5l can), 1 funnel, old cardboard boxes to avoid dirtying the floor, 1 pair of workshop gloves and, if possible, 1 pair of latex gloves (if you want to keep your hands clean).
• Consumables: an oil filter, a can of new oil suitable for your motorcycle (in our case: 4L Silkolene Comp 4 MC-Syn 10W40). For further details, consult your motorcycle owner's manual. In most cases, 10w40 is suitable (see future article on different types of oil). Quantity: check your owner's manual, Internet forums, or sometimes there's an indication of levels on the crankcase (in our case 1.9l with oil filter change).
• A PASSIONATE MOTORIST FRIEND: very useful, as he can save you from damaging your fragile little fingers. To make him want to help you, explain that you're not sure you know how to do an oil change... and that you'll offer him a meal to thank him (Tip: Best of Big Mac, less than 6€ at Mac Do ).
• A chaise longue so you can doze off while your boyfriend takes care of your oil change.

1. Warm up your bike, set up the carton

To liquefy your motorcycle's oil and make it easier to change, you'll need to warm up your engine for a few minutes. During this time, place a fairly large cardboard box under the motorcycle to avoid dirtying the floor. As soon as your motorcycle switches off its automatic choke, you can stop the engine. BE CAREFUL: some parts of the motorcycle, particularly the exhaust, will be hot for all the handling to come. So, if you wish, protect your hands with work gloves.

2. "Preliminary work

If your motorcycle has a lower fairing or shoe, start by dismantling it.
Locate the various plugs and the oil filter (if in doubt, consult your owner's manual).
To change the oil, unscrew :
- the oil sump plug (for topping up oil)
- the drain plug (a large screw under the sump)
- The oil filter: "the little cylinder-shaped thing in front of the engine, at the level of the exhaust manifold".

3. Unscrewing and draining

Place the oil pan under the drain plug, then unscrew the crankcase filler plug. Put on your latex gloves if you don't want to end up with your fingers full of oil (normally these are your biker buddy's hands... so it doesn't really matter). Unscrew your drain plug with a suitable open-end wrench (a pipe wrench will do just fine). Here you'll need to avoid dropping the plug into the pan when the oil starts to flow.

Once the oil is flowing... well... that's... uh... well it's good. Set aside the drain plug and gasket.

4. No cell phones when you're working!

Avoid carrying a cell phone with you. Otherwise, before you start tinkering, text your mom to explain that you won't be able to pick up the phone in the next hour.

5. Unscrewing the oil filter

Move the bowl slightly so that it's below the drain hole and the oil filter. CAUTION: your manifold may still be hot, so put on your work gloves as a precaution. Take the filter wrench and find out how to use it (not difficult). Insert your wrench and unscrew slowly. Once the filter is running smoothly, finish off by hand, then empty the oil from the filter into the filter pan.

If your bike is on the side stand, stand it upright for a few seconds so that as much of the residual oil as possible falls into the drain pan.

6. Refitting the filter

Soak the gasket of the new filter in a little oil to make it easier to fit.

You can pre-fill the bottom of the filter with a little oil before fitting.

Screw on the oil filter by hand. In our case, we didn't have a torque wrench.

Personal technique: tighten only by hand, without jerking. If you're a gym-goer, hold back a little so as not to crush the filter gasket too much.

7. Refitting the drain plug

It's best to clean all the parts you disassemble before re-use. So use a degreasing product to clean your plug. For all these minor cleaning operations, we recommend the use of specific degreasers for brake discs, which are highly effective (Our product: Power Brake Clean Motorex).

To complete the job, you'll need to fit a new gasket to the drain plug (available from your dealer... who may sell you a 300-euro overhaul to go with it...). Nico's personal tip: I've changed the oil several times now and fitted the original gasket if it's in good condition (after cleaning). I've never had any leaks.

Soak the screw thread of the plug in oil and screw it in by hand. As soon as it reaches the stop, take your open-end wrench and tighten without jerking (remember: we don't have a torque wrench). Tighten, but not too much (you know what we mean?). To be on the safe side, check for leaks after a test drive.

8. Filling the crankcase

Take your oil can and funnel. If your oil can doesn't have a level indicator, you'll need to use a measuring jug to put in the right amount of oil. Place your funnel in the oil filler hole in the crankcase and pour in the oil. Stop regularly to check the level (in our case 1.9L was required). Once this is done, you can replace the crankcase plug, after checking that it is clean.

9. Cleaning and checks

If you've got oil everywhere, it's time to clean it up. In our case, we had forgotten to put a piece of cardboard on the exhaust manifold of the "kawette", so it was full of oil following the removal of the used filter. To do this, use the degreaser spray again. Take the opportunity to clean what's in front of you. The crankcase of our "kawette" was greasy, because there's a small leak on the engine crankcase gasket (don't worry, we're keeping a close eye on it).

Check that you haven't forgotten to do anything, to screw in, to clean... a 14" wrench in a crankcase can make a mess.

10. Final checks

Start the bike and let it warm up. Stop it, then wait 5 minutes before checking the oil level and any leaks. If you've followed our instructions correctly, there shouldn't be any problems. If not, explain to your friend that if he's done a bad job, he won't get a MacDonald's!

We recommend that you carry out an additional check after driving a few kilometers.

NB: the oil change can be carried out without a buddy, so the deckchair won't be necessary.