Motorcycle traveler: Margaux aka "etonvaoùmaintenant" on the Silk Road

Exploring the world on a motorcycle: what a vast undertaking. What excites us most? Meeting the travelers and adventurers who have taken it upon themselves to discover the most remote corners of the world. As each of them has their own vision of travel, we're giving them the floor in a series of interviews.

In this article, Margaux (etonvaoùmaintenant) lends herself to the exercise. What's on the agenda? 33,000 km, 17 countries, 14 months of travel (including 8 months on the road) with the lofty goal of surveying the mythical Silk Road! Nothing less.

Staying in Kazakhstan at the time of this interview, this long-distance motorcyclist looks back on her incredible journey, her highlights and introduces us to her bike. Enjoy the trip!

----> You can find her detailed itinerary on Polarsteps

Hello Margaux, in April 2022, you set off on a road-trip called "Objective: Silk Road". Can you tell us about your itinerary, its key moments and the purpose of this journey?

Hello everyone! It's been almost 1 year since I started my journey. I haven't seen the time go by since my departure...

I've been drawn to Asia in general for years, and to the central part in particular for its wide open spaces and nomadic traditions. I've always been on the move, ever since I was a little girl. In a way, I think I recognize myself in this nomadic culture, and the Silk Road has always been a dream of mine, so it just made sense. That's where I'm going!

So I chose to do the Europe part quickly, but I didn't want to take any shortcuts by boat. It's worth noting that I took my motorcycle driving test just before this trip and FOR this trip. I therefore had almost no experience as a motorcyclist, and I wanted to have time to familiarize myself with my bike before arriving at the heart of my trip: Central Asia.

From the south-west of France, I rode to Italy, then Slovenia, before heading down the Adriatic coast to Turkey, by boat only. This whole first part of the trip, just the two of us with my father, allowed me to get my bearings and establish a routine.

After 5 weeks of father-daughter travel, we said goodbye in Kusadasi in western Turkey, and then the solo part began!

You opted for a Royal Enfield Himalayan, a 400cm³ single-cylinder. Can you tell us a bit about your beauty? What are its strengths and weaknesses for this adventure?

Bala kadam dite Bala is my very first motorcycle. For the record, the name means "baby step" in Kirghiz. That's how I see and live my life. Anything is possible, you just have to take baby steps, one step at a time, until you reach your goal, no matter how big or crazy.

I was looking for a practical bike that could follow me on all my adventures. The Himalayan is neither too tall for my 1m70, nor too heavy, nor too "sophisticated". It's easily repairable and maneuverable. It's a real pleasure to ride, whatever the terrain. I was looking for a bike designed for adventure, and I think it's clearly made for it.

On the downside, it's neither very powerful nor very fast. You have to be patient to climb hills, but I was going on a long trip, so I wasn't in a hurry. As it's a single-cylinder, it also vibrates a lot. I don't necessarily feel it too much when I'm riding, but the many screws that came loose during my trip and my tendinitis problem in my wrist can testify to that.

How did you prepare your bike?

I had a lot of help. The world of motorcycling was totally unknown to me, so I sought help from competent people. It all started with my father, who'd been riding since he was a teenager. I also met Coraly, biker and saleswoman at Dafy Moto in Pau, Clément, mechanic at Honda in Bordeaux and Florin and his team of mechanics at Bike Avenue, Lons, the dealership where I bought my bike.

We debriefed together, and each of them helped me in their own way to prepare the bike. Most of the work was done by my father Daniel, Clément and Adrien ( Bike Avenue's workshop manager).

By the way, what's your relationship with motorcycles? Did you plan this trip on anything other than a bike?

To be honest, I've never really been that interested in motorcycling. That said, I've always seen my father and my uncles, who were all keen on old bikes, with their hands always in the engine. I even attended their trials competitions on Mont Ventoux.

By embarking on this trip, I wanted to experience the freedom to go where I want, when I want, how I want, to be a free bird in a way. I also knew that I was going to a part of the world where I'd have to deal with terrain that was sometimes very rugged. With a motorcycle, you can go anywhere. You're exposed to everything: the road, the weather, but also the people, which makes it easier to meet new people.

So this vehicle was a natural choice for this trip, because of what it brings. It's also at the heart of my project: freedom and encounters. Even before I got my A2 license, I couldn't have imagined doing the Silk Road without a motorcycle.

What equipment do you have for this long-distance trip (helmet, jacket, pants, boots, gloves, etc.)?

I opted for an Ixon all-season Touring/Adventure jacket and pants. As for the helmet, I have a Schuberth C5 modulable. I wasn't necessarily a fan of modulables at first, but they're great! When I stop, I open my helmet and the people I meet see a smiling face instead of a closed bubble without knowing who's behind it, which is reassuring.

I have Ixon summer touring gloves, Bering goretex winter gloves and now Furygan heated gloves for men. As I'll be leaving for a long time between Europe and Central Asia, I knew I'd have to deal with very hot (+40°) and potentially very cold temperatures, especially given the altitude in places!

As for my boots, I have TCX Drifter (men's). I have no complaints about my equipment, which has done its job perfectly from the outset. Note that the choice of equipment for women and this type of trip is rather limited...

And what kind of luggage do you have? How is your luggage organized on your bike?

As far as luggage is concerned, I only have SW-Motech equipment to help me on this trip. In 2022, I had 2 SysBag 30 semi-rigid cases on the rear, 1 Pro Rack bag on the luggage rack and 1 35L drybag on the saddle. On top of the bags I had one of my father's duffel bags with an empty backpack inside (for excursions). On the front of the bike I had 2 drybag 80s and a magnetic Pro Daypack tank bag.

As with any first experience, mistakes are made and I clearly had a lot of "just in case" items. There must be around 50-55 kgs of luggage (including tent, mechanical equipment and suitcase weight). I also knew that I wanted to tell the story and share this trip in photos and videos. So I also have some technological equipment (hybrid camera, gopro and laptop). It was inconceivable for me to give up on them, despite the added weight.

For 2023, the SysBag 30 suitcases have been replaced by the new version, the SysBag 30 WP, more flexible and with a different composition. The bag for excursions was left behind in France this winter. The rest of the luggage is more or less unchanged, although I've sorted it out. From now on, I'll be riding a little lighter.

How have you organized your work and life in France?

I'm "Lead Modeling", which means I manage a team of graphic designers who create 3D sets for animated feature films. At the end of the last film I was working on in 2022, I had to wait for a new project to start. So I told my company not to worry about me, that I was off on the Silk Road and that we'd talk again the day there was a new project... To be continued!

How did you prepare for your trip?

I've been thinking about this trip and saving for it for a very long time. It's evolved over the years, but the desire to go and see elsewhere has always been as strong as ever. It's impossible to plan everything, and that wasn't the point - on the contrary. So I thought about my main objectives, which were to go to the "stan" countries, Mongolia and end the trip in Vladivostok. Based on this and the seasons, I then drew up a retro-planning and an itinerary outline on the "planificateur à contre sens" website. This gave me an idea of a potential departure date and estimated the duration of my stages. Once I'd set off, I mostly adapted my itinerary according to my desires, my preferences, my fatigue and the geo-political situation, of course.

A few months before leaving, I started learning Russian on my own, then with an association. Clearly it wasn't enough, but I knew that a few notions of Russian would help me in Central Asia. I'm still learning on my own every day.

Before leaving, I took an off-road driving course in Bordeaux to learn a few basics and good reflexes: how to raise my bike, ride standing up... I realized that I loved off-road driving. This made me even more determined to set off on my motorcycle for the Silk Road!

I also took a mechanics course with Bike Avenue, Lons. I wanted to be able to deal with the most common breakdowns and problems. I wouldn't know how to fix another bike, but at least I know a little about mine: where the air filter is, where the oil filter is, how to change the oil, how to remove the fuel tank, how to change a tire etc...

What kind of roads do you ride on? Are you more into asphalt or dirt tracks?

Generally speaking, I tend to ride on asphalt, while avoiding main roads and freeways. I'd much rather get lost on a mountain road, whether it's asphalt or... a dirt track, which is often the case from Turkey onwards.

As for real off-road outings, they're more occasional, even though I really enjoy them. I don't go off-road solo (except once or twice in Georgia and Turkey, in spite of myself). I prefer to be accompanied by other bikers, mainly for safety reasons.

Tent, youth hostel or hotel, what type of accommodation do you prefer? Do you prefer to book everything in advance or improvise from day to day?

I wanted to be free to adapt my itinerary according to my desires and encounters. Booking too far in advance would have been impossible. At the beginning, with my father, we would book the day before for the next day, preparing our next stage. After 1 week, we stopped booking. In the morning or at lunchtime, we would simply look for 2 or 3 possible accommodations for the evening's estimated stage, and then go and see where we were when we arrived. We only stayed in hotels.

For the rest of the trip, I opted for cheap hotels or homestays. Honestly, after a day's driving, having a bed, a shower and a quiet place to stay is nice. That said, I've got my tent and all the camping gear I need (10kg in one of the back suitcases) in case I get stuck somewhere or if the scenery really invites me to stay.

From France to Turkey, you rode with your father. Was it important for you to share this adventure with him?

When I decided to embark on this long-distance motorcycle trip, I quickly suggested to my father and my uncles that they come along for the ride. I knew it would be an incredible experience and I wanted to share it, especially with my father. I'm glad he agreed. It was a pretty crazy and privileged 5 weeks between father and daughter. I don't regret it for a second, even if the goodbyes in Turkey were obviously difficult.

Had you ever traveled alone on a motorcycle before?

I took my motorcycle license during the second and third lockdowns in 2021. With these conditions, it was difficult to make long trips. So just before the big departure, I decided to do a 3-day mini road-trip. I rode to the Bardenas Reales in Spain with Thomas, a biker friend. I was able to test my equipment and luggage in a real-life situation, and this enabled me to rectify 2-3 details.

To put it simply, I set off on this Silk Road trip with not even 3,500 km of motorcycling experience under my belt. It was my first motorcycle trip, and a lonely one at that.

After enjoying Kyrgyzstan, you returned to France for a few months during the winter. Was this planned?

Not at all. I had planned to stay all winter in Central Asia to discover the real cold and snowy winter, while continuing to travel temporarily without the bike. Unfortunately, during my trip, pain set in on my right wrist. Result: tendonitis. I tried to treat it in Kazakhstan, but it didn't really work. So I decided to leave my bike in the garage of a motorcycle club in Almaty in southern Kazakhstan and bought a plane ticket from Kyrgyzstan. After 2 weeks traveling there without the bike, I returned to France for a few months to get back into shape.

It also enabled me to take stock of my equipment. What was missing, what was too much, and to rectify all that for the rest of the adventure.

A woman on a motorcycle is bound to arouse curiosity, isn't it?

It's no small thing to say! It's true that being a woman on a motorcycle, and even more so on your own, does make people curious. People often come up to me with wide eyes and a billion questions on their lips. Who are you? Why are you here? Are you alone? Aren't you scared? It's funny how after a brief exchange, whatever the language, it often ends in "super girl" or "crazy girl"...

Can you tell us about your happiest moments, your most memorable encounters?

I don't think a day goes by without a memorable encounter... In Turkey, while I was taking a break on the side of the road, two young women came up to me to say hello. A simple hello turned into an invitation to tea, and one thing led to another... I stayed with the family of one of them, Meltem, for 4 days! I was in one of the smallest villages in Turkey and no one spoke English, apart from a few words for Meltem. I was welcomed with open arms and even invited to a women's party and then an engagement party. It was just incredible!

In Russia I met some bikers who took me under their wings and opened the door to motorcycle clubs, a world I knew nothing about. At first, I was just looking for an oil change for my bike. In the end, I found myself accompanied and welcomed every step of the way, from Yekaterinburg in Russia to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, several thousand kilometers away! It was then that I discovered this great family of motorcyclists and the incredible support they gave to two-wheeled travellers like me.

Another encounter changed the course of my trip. In northern Kazakhstan, thanks to the biker family, I discovered a magnificent place, an Eden in the middle of the steppes: Borovoe. Once again, the bikers there welcomed me with open arms. I felt so at home there that I decided to come back after my few months in France to see this region under the snow. It was only supposed to last a week... and in the end I stayed there for almost 2 months, to the detriment of Kyrgyzstan, which was initially planned.

A long-term adventure is full of pitfalls. Can you share with us your worst problems or mechanical glitches?

I'm touching wood, but so far everything's gone pretty well. I haven't had any major problems. That said, I do have one anecdote that cost me a lot of money for a silly mistake. In Georgia, I was traveling with Rémy and Linda, two French bikers. While we were lost in the middle of the pampas, my bike seemed to stop moving. No matter how hard I pushed the throttle, it barely moved until it stopped in the middle of a mini hill. No one on the horizon. Of course, the rain starts just then, otherwise it's no fun. Fortunately, a van comes along and gives me a lift. Unfortunately, the garages in the vicinity only deal with cars. The nearest motorcycle garage is over 200 km away, in Tbilisi. Xaco, the van driver, offered to take me there for a fee. Given the conditions and the remote location, this was the wisest option. Once in Tbilisi, it turned out that it was just a simple screw that was too tight and was keeping the clutch engaged, probably the result of a little off-road fall the day before... This screw cost me a lot of money in repairs, but that's how you learn, isn't it?

The other mechanical problems that followed were always caused by vibrations. Screws unscrewed and blocked other parts of the bike, but this time I knew what to look for first!

There were also problems with border closures. As a reminder, in 2022 Azerbaijan had its land borders closed, Turkmenistan too, and Russia was very complicated to access. So how do you get across the Caspian Sea into Central Asia? Many of the travelers I met had to turn back. Plans A, B, C and D had to be made, and finally, in mid-July, Russia eased the procedures for crossing land borders. I was still traveling with Rémy and Linda at the time, so without missing a beat, we sent our passports to Paris to apply for our visas. A few weeks later, we had our passes. Central Asia was finally opening its arms to us after several months of doubt and uncertainty.

That's what a long-haul trip is all about, especially post-covid and with the geopolitical situations we're currently experiencing. It requires patience, a bit of luck and, above all, belief.

16,000km covered in 5 months, that's an average of 104km/day. Are you a slow traveler?

I'm on a long-haul trip, so I have plenty of time. Driving for the sake of driving is not a goal in itself for me. I like to stop, admire, take photos, meet and chat. As much as I love my bike, it's a single-cylinder. I don't have the riding comfort of a twin-cylinder, and after 250-300 km I'm already pretty worn out.

I didn't ride every day either, which also explains this low daily average. When I came across people or places that made me want to stay, I did. That's the biggest gift of my trip: the freedom to leave or stay as I please, without being caught by time. Sometimes I stay a few hours, sometimes a few days or even a week.

What's a typical day like for you?

A typical day? it depends so much on the country! In Europe, Turkey or Georgia, many of the places to discover were close together. The stages were of the order of 150 to 300 km per day. In Russia or Kazakhstan, it's a different story. There's real no-man's-land there, so the stages are more like 400-600 km across steppes as far as the eye can see, with no sign of life. Anyway, I'm an early riser. Whether it's to ride all day if the stage is long, or to arrive early in the afternoon and have time to do a bit of sightseeing.

"You're a woman and you're traveling alone?? Isn't it dangerous?" That's a question you've probably been asked a lot.

Clearly it's THE question everyone asks me, men and women alike. When a woman decides to travel alone, the people around her are rarely enthusiastic, let's be honest. One of the main reasons is fear. I think that unfortunately all women have experienced the feeling of insecurity and know that they have to be more vigilant than their male counterparts. It's not fair, but it's still a reality. When I'm asked on a trip if it's safe, if I'm not scared, I always reply that the only place I've ever really felt unsafe in my life was... in Paris. When I was working there, a man followed me on my early morning jog. But I've never felt that way in a foreign country!

Travelling alone (or alone, for that matter), and even more so on a motorcycle, attracts a lot of people, but above all a lot of kind-hearted people, worried and intrigued to know that we're there. Ready to help. Human beings are pretty well built, too. When we step out of our comfort zone, our brains adapt very quickly, our senses sharpen and we learn to listen to our instincts to discern the benevolent from the malicious.

When I started talking about my project, I got different kinds of reactions: amazement, admiration, encouragement, but also a lot of fear. Despite my age of 33-34, I was often spoken to as if I were an ingenuous child. That it was dangerous for me, that I'd never make it as a fresh A2, that with the covid and the war it would be impossible, that I didn't realize the risks to my safety, that I'd have to postpone it for a year, that I wouldn't have the physical or mechanical capacity for this trip, that I'd never be able to go to Central Asia as the borders were closed... and so on. As if I wasn't aware of the risks, or that I wasn't the one planning this trip!

I never let other people's fears get the better of me, on the contrary. The more people told me it was impossible, the more determined I was to prove that it was bullshit (sorry for the term). I could do it, it was within the reach of anyone who believed in their dream and gave themselves the means.

Six months later, I had covered almost 16,000 km. I'd arrived alone in Central Asia, met some incredible people, lived each day with pure freedom, pure happiness, and this journey isn't over yet...

What advice would you give to a female biker hesitating to embark on a solo adventure?

The advice I'd give (regardless of gender) is not to listen to other people's fears, and to keep your own to a minimum. It should be a benevolent guide, not a hindrance. Of course, there are always risks, but just like anywhere else. Magic happens outside our comfort zone, and I can confirm that. Go for it, you won't regret it!

Here's an interview full of wisdom and positivity, the kind of story that makes you want to get on your bike and ride off to see if you're there. What do we love about Margaux? She's mastered the art of putting things into perspective. As she puts it so well, a long-haul trip "requires patience, a bit of luck and, above all, always believing." Nothing more to say.

----> You can follow her adventures on facebook, instagram, Youtube and her blog etonvaoumaintenant.com