Motorcycle traveller: Colline (1woman 2 wheels), 6 months from France to Israel

Exploring the world on a motorcycle: what a vast undertaking. What excites us most? Meeting the travelers and adventurers who have set out to discover the most remote corners of the world. As each of them has their own vision of travel, we're giving them the floor in a series of interviews.

In this article, Colline, aka 1 woman 2 wheels, takes the plunge. On the program? 22,000km, 6 months of road-trip, an adventure from France to Israel and back.

Back in France, this restless biker looks back on her journey, her preparations, her highlights and introduces us to her bike. Enjoy the trip!

----> You can find her detailed itinerary on Polarsteps

----> And you can follow her adventures on Facebook and Instagram

At the beginning of July 2022, you set off on a 6-month motorcycle adventure covering some 22,000 km. Can you tell us about your initial itinerary and the purpose of this journey?

This project has taken a thousand and one turns. It's hard to stick to a single course of action when you want to discover the whole world. So we had to decide on an itinerary, based in particular on what was feasible by road. As my bike is Indian, the "excuse" was obvious: head for the factory in Chennai, India and beyond (I was also aiming for the tip of the Asian continent, towards Cambodia). I wanted to take the time to meet the people, their cultures and the natural and cultural wonders that surround them.

So I enjoyed riding along the Adriatic Sea (Italy, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Northern Macedonia, Greece) for a good 1 month, then the Aegean Sea with Turkey (also 1 month, but time seems to go by much faster than my bike) to continue on to Iran, then Pakistan and India (Burma being still closed because of the war, the trip had to stop in India, then return by plane for me and certainly by cargo for the bike).

My plan was to meet 1 or 2 women's associations along the way. The associations I contacted never replied. But during a Facebook conversation with another biker (Belgian), I had the opportunity to meet Yazd Banoo Cycling, an association of women who cycle in Iran (despite the risks for them, prison or worse), so it was with Mahtab and by bike (an incredible experience) that we visited the city of Yazd.

While you were in Iran, you changed your itinerary. What prompted you to change your plans? Was it difficult to abandon the initial project (morally and practically)?

Barely 10 days after I entered Iran, the world's biggest feminist revolution broke out in the country. Added to this was the fact that Pakistan had suffered massive flooding over the summer. By the time I wanted to cross the border into Pakistan, it was closed. I already had my visas and a few contacts waiting for me in both Pakistan and India. But for the rest, I never planned my trip too far in advance, which meant I could change it as I met new people or felt like it.

So we had to come up with a plan B, as returning via Turkey sounded a bit like a failure, and we had to extend our Iranian visa. We were already cut off from the Internet (which is not easy when you know what information was reaching our loved ones through the media). At the time, I was traveling with Tina, a German biker, who told me she was continuing on her way to Dubai. Then I received an e-mail from a colleague, telling me that archaeological digs were resuming in Saudi Arabia. Setting off in this direction seemed more positive to me than cutting short the trip for a U-turn via the mountain passes in the middle of winter (return to France planned for December or January).

All in all, I took this change of program as an opportunity to really get out of my comfort zone, because nothing was planned. So it allowed me to discover the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, rediscover Jordan (I had worked there a few years ago on the Jerash site), and finally Israel. Looking back, I regret not having been to Palestine too.

You opted for a Royal Enfield Himalayan. Can you tell us a bit about your beauty? What are its strengths and weaknesses? What's her name?

For me, Sighild (my Viking warrior from India) has many qualities and few faults, contrary to what many people say. Despite weighing 180kg, it's a bike I can stand up on my own, and for a trail bike, I'm on my feet! It can be repaired with 3 times nothing and the price is quite affordable. It's equally at home on roads and trails. And it forces you to take your time on the road, yes its little 24hp and max 110km/h allow you to enjoy the scenery. And in terms of fuel consumption, it's a real pleasure: I can do at least 400km on a full tank without any worries.

How did you prepare your bike for this trip?

When I read on the networks what other bikers are doing in terms of preparation, I'm amazed. I even wonder if, by changing this and that, they're not making up their own bikes. Anyway, Sighild, which I bought especially for this trip, has had a few little changes made to it:

• Passenger seat transformed into a toolbox
• Throttle cable lining
• Headlight grille
• Hand guards
• Heated grips
• Folding mirrors
• Long-range headlights
• Docking a few screws (my mechanic's old Sioux technique)
• Sheepskin on the seat
• Changing the rear shock absorber
• Reinforcing the luggage rack

Then a few tests with the luggage and on the roads (I'd never been off-road before this trip). In the end, given the roads I rode, I could have done anything with my old 2003 600 fazer (except maybe the Varzaneh desert in Iran).

By the way, what's your relationship with motorcycles? What were your previous road-trips and two-wheeled experiences?

I started riding as an SDS with my older brothers, but I soon got my license. It's much more fun on the front. After that, I travelled a lot on my own, often with a heavy load, notably to my archaeological sites all over France, but also on a few small expeditions in Europe. My first "big" experience: I hadn't had my trusty 600 Fazer for very long, so I set off to meet up with a friend who lives in Warsaw. Then, when I started planning this big trip, the question didn't really arise. I've met many different kinds of travellers, and motorcycling seemed to me to be the perfect way to experience adventure at first hand! I have to admit that it makes it a lot easier to meet people (even if you don't speak much English). The map of the world on the back of the bike, with the route you've taken drawn on it, also helps.

What biker gear do you have for this trip (helmet, jacket, pants, boots, gloves, other)? Are you happy with your choices (quality, defects)? Are there any you'd particularly recommend (or advise against)? (Don't hesitate to give precise names).

The big question of equipment, be it motorcycle, bivouac, mechanical or other... is a point that took me a long time. Between wanting to be well equipped, the budget, but also getting back to basics... Whatever the subject, there's an incredible equipment race. Seeing everyone off with adventure-type outfits, I thought that was what I needed. I was lucky enough to be able to try on a complete, good-quality outfit, but it didn't seem to be for me. So I went with what I already had:

• Forma Adventureboots (next time, I'll go withmy Alpinestars - J-6 Waterproof sneakers).
• Women's Wasteland Racing CargoPants Reinforced Aramid Slim Fit Olive.
• Segura Lady Fridajacket (textile jacket), fairly waterproof except in mega heavy rain.
• Segura Lady Mavericksummer gloves, and pretty much the same in mid-season. I don't like riding with overly thick gloves, so between mid-season and heated grips, I take regular breaks to warm up my hands (a great opportunity to meet new people). I also add tattoo gloves (as large as possible) in case of rain or cold.
• Ixonrain gear, the pants aren't super-tight at the seams.
• Nishua enduro carbon adventurehelmet, for its lightness and not so noisy.
• A good pair of sunglasses and an intercom to listen to some music.

On the whole, I'm happy with my equipment: over my 6-month trip, I had 5 months of heatwave and only 10 days of rain. On the other hand, the change in temperature between the Middle East and Europe in December was a bit tough. Despite the extreme-cold outfits I had planned, the temperature differences were very (too) high.

And what type of luggage do you have? Are you more of the soft or hard team (eternal question)? How is your luggage organized on your bike? Small bags to divide things up?

I'm more of a soft team, which is one of the areas where I've invested a little (although, being a "pro" at the bon coin, I managed to find my panniers at half price). I went with the Mosko Rackless 80L, which have the advantage of fitting all bikes. However, I found the saddlebag a bit small. So I changed it for a 60L SW Motech + 2 small waterproof bags also on the front of the bike. Total weight of luggage? 28kg (including the weight of the panniers and the Mosko tank-bag on the tank with its integrated water bag). I've never had a problem with theft or anything else. And I don't regret my choice. The tank-bag is a bit heavy for my taste, especially when you leave the bike in the middle of the day to go for a ride. What's more, the customs clearance booklet (A4) doesn't fit in it, so it stayed on the bike with my little laptop.

How did you prepare for your trip? Are you more of a meticulous organizer or a queen of improvisation?

That's a very good question. In general, I'm pretty good at organization. And for various reasons (covid, burn-out....) I've had time to prepare this trip: a good 3 years. But I also wanted to get back to basics: how did our elders travel without all our technologies and the Internet? So I tried to prepare my equipment, my bike and my mind with simplicity and without organizing everything. The idea was also to leave room for encounters and improvisation. This enabled me to learn to let go and accept the unexpected (while listening to my instincts to avoid getting into dangerous situations). And that's great! I've changed direction 25,000 times and met some incredible people. Sometimes I've stayed longer than planned with certain people or in certain places.

How do you manage your professional life and the question of financing when you're away for so long? Do you necessarily have to leave everything behind to set off on a 6-month tour?

We often think that a trip like this is extremely expensive, but it depends a lot on how we live in general. I'm an archaeologist, which is what we call a passion job, and the salary isn't very high. All the same, I've managed to save enough to travel without depriving myself. My boss granted me a sabbatical (I also had nearly 3 months' leave to take), so I got my job back on my return. As for the rest of the expenses in France, there are plenty of solutions : a car entrusted to a relative who takes care of the insurance or there are car rental sites between private individuals, furnished rental accommodation (or a boyfriend who agrees to pay the expenses and look after the cats). In short, we find excuses (usually financial) not to leave, but there are plenty of solutions to limit the costs we may incur in France if we don't want to sell everything before we leave.

What type of roads do you use? Are you more into asphalt or dirt roads?

Actually, I'm more of a road person. I did take a few courses, notably with Les Traileuses to learn how to ride off-road, but on my own and with a "slight" lack of self-confidence, I didn't dare venture onto dirt tracks. Except in the desert in Iran, where all of a sudden the road turned into a rain-slicked track. On the other hand, I have a clear preference for very small roads rather than major thoroughfares.

Tent, youth hostel or hotel, what type of accommodation do you prefer (and why)?

Here again, I'd planned for a bivouac so as to be self-sufficient. I carried around 10kg for nothing. Since I didn't dare go off-road alone, bivouacking was complicated. What's more, when you look at the rates between campsites and youth hostels, the difference isn't that obvious. So I juggled between homestays and youth hostels.

A long-distance motorcycle trip like this is intense, both great and challenging. What were the small difficulties of everyday life (or the things that became painful in the long run) and, on the other hand, the small/great pleasures?

There are little things that can fall into both categories, depending on the state of mind you're in at the time. Impromptu encounters just off the bike are generally great moments. On the other hand, I left France alone, but in reality I was rarely really alone. Sometimes I had to use stratagems to get a few moments to myself, to the detriment of a nice meeting. My level of English was a real hindrance and a real frustration. But I always found a way to make myself understood. This kind of trip also involves food. I'm naturally quite curious, but I didn't always know what I was eating because of a lack of translation and understanding. Still, I regret not having been able to communicate more with the people I met, as I quickly felt limited in the conversations I could have. Because of my job, I'm used to moving around a lot and re-packing every day. It's a blow to take, but at times I should have listened to myself and stayed in one place longer. I was away for 6 months, which may seem like a long time, but time passes incredibly quickly and I almost felt I was going too fast on this trip.

A woman on a motorcycle is bound to arouse curiosity, isn't it? Do you have any related anecdotes?

Yes, and that's nothing to sneeze at. I often didn't even have time to get off the bike before someone was approaching me. As soon as I left France, people were very surprised that I was leaving alone. On the road, I encountered much more kindness than aggression. I've lost count of the full tanks of petrol I've been unable to pay for, the invitations to lunch or sleep over, the improbable stops at the edge of fields for a tea break, or the fish tails in Iran to thank me for visiting the country (despite my government's contraindications), not forgetting the "obligatory" selfie at every meeting in Iran.

Can you tell us about your finest moments, your most memorable encounters?

Some of the most memorable encounters I've had are very short, like the breakfast I shared with a Turk in Canakkale, or the lunch I had with a family in Abyaneh, Iran (a small red village lost in the mountains). Maybe that's when I realized how lucky I was to be French and free. Despite my catastrophic level of English, I was able to chat with the mother of the family, who was delighted that I was giving her 5-6 year-old daughter a motorcycle ride. She told me how much hope I was bringing to young girls and women in her country, where "their fundamental freedoms are being stolen" (a phrase I heard many times, and one that raises the alarm about the situation in the country). One of my most memorable encounters was with camels in Saudi Arabia, who made me wonder what this mechanical horse was all about (I only came across three two-wheelers in the whole country).

Motorcycle travel can be full of pitfalls. Can you share with us your worst mechanical problems?

Ah, mechanical problems! If I'd listened to all the advice before setting off, I'd have made this trip in a semi-trailer! In the end, I was lucky. I was quite spared in that respect. Sighild decided not to start up again in the no-man's-land between Turkey and Iran, and did so a few times when I entered Iran. As a result, I had to restart with a baby carriage thanks to some policemen, then dismantle several parts of the bike under the surprised gaze of the local men... A woman who knows about mechanics?! Anyway, after a hard day's work, and finally with the help of a mechanic (by trade), we found the problem. The main fuse also had a tendency to blow during certain manoeuvres, which turned out to be due to some electrical accessories I'd added. Apart from that, Sighild managed quite well during the trip and coped well with both the load and the scorching temperatures we had.

To the famous question: "You're a woman and you travel alone? Isn't it dangerous? How do you usually answer it?

I've heard that question a lot in France and all over the world! I usually reply that 80% of assaults are committed between people I know (family-friends). So I'm less likely to be mugged if I'm out and about with strangers than if I'm sedentary. I also recommend Lucie Azémat's book "Les femmes aussi sont du voyage"(I'd heard a lot about it before my trip, and was lucky enough to meet her in Istanbul). And as Anne-France Dautheville or Mélusine Malender might have told me, a woman alone on a motorcycle is an extraterrestrial. Everywhere in the world, people will be looking to see if she needs help. Unlike men, we're incredibly lucky in that we're just as welcome at men's tables (because of our "alien" side) as we are with women.

What advice would you give to a female biker hesitating to embark on a solo adventure?

Go for it! We often ask ourselves too many questions, fear of the unknown, getting out of our comfort zone, lack... First of all, you have to listen to your desires and needs, and go at your own pace. Don't always pay attention to criticism or advice from others. You can find food, clothes and garages everywhere. Don't be afraid of "the other"; I've encountered far more benevolence and curiosity than malice. But you also have to listen to your instincts. As for me, as I was leaving I said to my companion "I'll be back, I'm going to get the bread". I had envisaged this journey as a stroll, going a little further each day.

Since this wonderful adventure, you've taken part in several trade shows and conferences. What are your favorite subjects, the messages you like to share and pass on?

My favorite subjects are the wonderful encounters I've had along the way, architecture, archaeology, natural sites, but also raising awareness of the condition of women in certain countries, the treatment of animals, ecology (litter, lack of water, etc.): all subjects that are close to my heart.

You also set up the "1 woman 2 wheels" association. Can you tell us about it?

I set up this association to help people get to know "the other" (the unknown that often frightens us when we watch too much television), and to meet other populations, whether by motorcycle, plane or on foot, in short by all possible means of locomotion. I'm thinking in particular of the Latécoère raid, which follows in the footsteps of the aeropostale with a humanitarian component. It's a project I'd very much like to carry out with my older brother, an airplane pilot (I was lucky enough to meet him in Turkey and Israel during my trip). During these trips, I'd like to help out, physically or materially, at least one association along the way (with a slight preference for organizations benefiting women).

"I'll be right back, I'm going to get the bread", a brilliant phrase that sums up Colline's state of mind for her motorcycle trip. It's a great way of looking at this road-trip: relaxed, no-holds-barred and open to the unexpected. If this travelogue has inspired you, we'd like to let other adventurers have their say on our blog.