How to choose a motorcycle tire changer? How to change a tire at home

Removing a tire is an operation as simple as it is dreaded. And yet, with the right method, a modicum of patience and the right tools, there's nothing tricky about it. But how do you choose your tire levers? What are the most important criteria? We'd like to share our tips with you, before giving you a step-by-step tutorial on how to change your motorcycle tire. Happy reading!

The two functions of a hand-held tire changer:

It must be easy to remove the tire from the wheel. This requires a fairly thin, easy-to-insert tip and sufficient length to provide the right amount of leverage. Inevitably, there's a compromise to be made: the longer the tool, the more force you can exert, but the more space it takes up.

It has to "hook" the lip of your gumdrop in order to extract it from the rim. Once again, there's a subtle equation to solve. The more curved the tip, the more grip it offers, but the harder it is to insert. And while there are a multitude of profiles available, it seems to us that the spoon shape is ideal. Why do we think so? Because it offers a great compromise between rigidity, thinness and grip.

By the way, how many tire levers do you need?

Two is the minimum. A third can be a lifesaver in the event of a particularly recalcitrant gumshoe.

What are the essential criteria for choosing a tire iron?

Here are the two most important criteria for choosing a tire changer:

1 - a fairly compact model with sufficient leverage. You need to take into account the space required, especially if you're going on a motorcycle trip where every cm3 counts.

2 - it must have a thin but rigid and slightly curved end to easily grip the lip of the tire.

Here's our selection of products:

----> SBV tire levers (x2)

----> Motion Pro SPOON TIRE IRON tire changer

With the basics out of the way, let's look at the little extras that make a simple tire iron your everyday best friend. The kind of tool you'd like to take to a desert island to draw a face with used grease and give it an affectionate nickname, like Wilson.

First of all, without having Monk-like powers of observation, you can see that this tool has two ends. So we might as well use both, right? That's why we prefer a model with a real use for this dead end. This could be a 24mm hexagonal wrench from Bihr, a 32mm lug wrench from DRC, or a wheel axle socket from Motion Pro.

What's more, these openings allow you to slide in a tool, like a 19mm open-end wrench, for extra leverage. Super handy!

----> Bihr tire changer + 24mm hex key

----> DRC tire changer + 32mm eye wrench

----> Motion Pro tire changer kit + axle socket (08-0589)

What about the profile? Is it better to opt for a wavy or flat shape?

For your information, models with a wave-shaped dropout are called "shotgun" tire changers. It's true that, with a bit of imagination, their profile can be reminiscent of the stock and barrel. The advantage of this curvature is undeniable, as it aids tire extraction by facilitating the passage of the lip over the rim edge. The downside? It's bulky. So we don't recommend it for roadtrips.

----> Chaft 380 silver tire changer

Bead Pro (Motion Pro) models

It's time to introduce you to a little revolution in the world of tire changers: Motion Pro's Bead Pro. Thanks to a clever tilting system, removing rubber from the rim is child's play. All right, so we haven't reinvented cutting powder either, but all the same.

Do you often have to change the shoes on your bike? Then it might be a good idea to opt for a workshop version. Halfway between the hand-held tire changer and the hydraulic garage version, these semi-professional models offer a host of benefits. First of all, the straps and centring pin allow you to work in complete stability. And most importantly? The bead breaker, combined with a handle and extension, gives you considerable leverage for bead breaking on even the toughest tires.

Fully dismountable, you can easily transport them to the site of a motorcycle race, for example. Please note that these models are manual. So they don't spin on their own, they don't make coffee, and they're best used in conjunction with hand-held tire changers.

Our product selection :

----> Bihr manual tire changer

----> Motorsport Products 70-3002 manual tire changer

----> Brazoline semi-professional manual tire changer

All that said, what's the procedure for changing a tire? Here's our step-by-step tutorial. In addition, we invite you to read our article entitled "How to deal with a puncture on the road". There you'll find our advice on how to get around a puncture on your own, as well as the ideal equipment for the job.

List of essential tools for replacing a tire:

• A set of tire levers (2 or 3, depending on your level of confidence)
• Aset of tools for re-inflating your tire: foot pump, portable self-inflator or Jean Reno-style lungs.
• Tools for removing the axle: eyebolt wrenches, hexagonal socket wrenches, screwdrivers, Allen keys, etc...
• A new tire: that is, unless you're dismounting tires for fun.
• Equipment to lift your bike: center stand, maintenance stand, workshop stand or good old motorcycle lift

Bonus equipment to make life easier:

• Tire grease to help with reassembly
• Tire lever to speed up deflation
• Valve puller for tubeless tires
• Rim protectors to prevent paint damage

Disassembly steps:

• Lift your bike with the tool of your choice. You can then unscrew and remove the rim axle, then extract the wheel. It's a good idea to let the tires warm up in the sun beforehand, to soften them.

• Then position yourself so that you can work on it, flat, without forcing on the brake ring. Wooden wedges are ideal.

• Deflate the tire either by pressing on the valve or by using the tire lever.

• Now comes the dreaded moment: removing the tire from the rim. Why is it so complicated? With mileage, inflation pressure and time, your gum tends to fuse with your wheel's rim. So you've got a few options: recite your dictionary of swear words and get really angry at the damn tire, use the leverage of a manual workshop tire changer if you're playing at home, or use the ingenious tilting system of Motion Pro's Bead Pro.

• Once the tire has come off, you can set about removing one side. The method? Insert the tip of a first tire lever into the space between the rim and the rubber, fit a rim protector if necessary, then twist the tool to push the lip of the tire out of the wheel. Keeping the first tire lever in this position, repeat the operation a little further on with a second one. All you have to do is repeat the operation all the way around the rim.

• With the first sidewall out, it's time to remove the inner tube - if you have one.

• You can then repeat the same operation on the second sidewall.

• Your tire is dismounted. Congratulations!

Reassembly: all the same, but in reverse.

• Start by positioning your new gumshoe, making sure it's in the right direction of rotation (indicated by an arrow). You can then apply tire grease to ease the installation, then retract the first sidewall using the tire levers (which is semantically a heresy, as they are then tire changers, but never mind).

• If you've got an inner tube, now's the time to insert it. The valve puller can then help you aim the valve at the rim hole. Our recommendation? Inflate it slightly to avoid pinching the rubber.

• All you have to do is insert the second sidewall of the tire, taking care not to damage the inner tube.

• Inflate, grease the axle, reassemble and you're ready to go.

You've just added another string to your biker/motorcycle/riding bow. Now you can explore the most remote regions (or not) without worrying about having to replace an inner tube or change a tire. In fact, maybe you're looking for your next mount? Then take a look at our online store.

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Image credit: banner photo image from freepik